You have decided on a square diamond ring, but two photographs look surprisingly different. One shows broad, geometric reflections; the other is full of smaller flashes. You may be looking at an Asscher cut and a princess cut.
The difference starts at the corners and continues through the way the stone’s flat surfaces, called facets, are arranged. Understanding those details helps you narrow a shortlist beyond “something square”.
Start with the corners
A princess-cut diamond usually has a square outline with pointed corners. An Asscher has cropped corners and a broadly square, eight-sided outline. Larger cropped corners make that eight-sided shape more pronounced.
Lily Arkwright’s collection of Asscher step-cut designs shows the shape in different settings, including plain-band and diamond-set styles. Its stone filters include lab-grown diamonds and moissanite, so choose the diamond options when making a diamond-to-diamond comparison.
View the centre stone’s outline separately from the metal around it. Claws can cover part of a corner, while a halo creates another border. If one photograph shows a plain setting and another a decorated one, you are comparing more than the two diamond cuts.
Look inside the outline
GIA’s guide to diamond shapes distinguishes a stone’s outline from its facet arrangement. An Asscher is a step cut, with rows of facets that create a layered, geometric appearance. A princess cut uses brilliant-style faceting, which produces a busier pattern of smaller reflections.
Watch how those reflections change as each stone moves. In an Asscher, follow the broader reflections and the apparent steps towards the centre. With a princess cut, watch the more fragmented pattern of flashes.
An Asscher’s open step-cut pattern can make inclusions, such as tiny crystals within the diamond, easier to see than in brilliant-style faceting. Consider whether any are noticeable at an ordinary viewing distance when assessing the particular stone.
Ask for slow video of the actual diamonds, preferably in similar lighting and from similar angles. A still image captures only one moment. If you can view them in person, move each gently to see which pattern you prefer.
Compare measurements before carat weight
Carat measures a diamond’s weight. It does not give the length and width you will see from above. Record both measurements in millimetres alongside the carat weight when judging how much space either square diamond will occupy on your finger.
A shape name does not promise perfectly equal sides either. The listed dimensions help you see whether a particular stone is very close to square or slightly elongated. An on-hand photograph is more useful when you know the pictured stone’s measurements and the model’s ring size.
Keep the metal colour and setting style similar where possible when judging the diamonds’ relative size.
Check the corners in their setting
The princess cut’s points deserve attention. GIA’s guidance on diamond chipping explains that sharp corners are vulnerable and need protection. Ask how the proposed setting covers them; V-shaped claws, also called V-prongs, are one option.
An Asscher’s cropped corners also need a suitable setting. Have the jeweller show you how the chosen diamond will be secured and protected, including any areas that deserve particular care.
With either cut, confirm whether a listing includes the centre stone. The guide to mountings and complete rings explains the difference.
Side views can also reveal how high the setting sits and how it meets a wedding band. If you intend to wear two rings together, try the combination and ask about contact between them. A pleasing square outline from above tells you little about that fit.
Make the final comparison specific
When requesting prices, keep the centre material and origin, metal and stone measurements alongside each complete-ring quote.
Tell the jeweller which features you preferred. You might prefer the Asscher’s cropped corners and layered reflections, or the princess cut’s pointed outline and pattern of small flashes. That gives the jeweller something specific to work with when selecting the next stone for you to see.